Why Finishing Matters

Raw metal corrodes, scratches, and looks industrial. The right finish protects the part and defines its appearance. The wrong finish wastes money or fails in service. Here’s how to choose.

Powder Coating

Dry powder (epoxy, polyester, or hybrid) is electrostatically sprayed onto the part, then baked in an oven at 350–450°F. The powder melts and flows into a uniform, durable coating.

Pros

  • Extremely durable — resists chipping, scratching, fading
  • Thick, even coverage (2–6 mils typical)
  • Hundreds of colors and textures (matte, gloss, textured, metallic)
  • No runs or drips
  • Environmentally friendly — no solvents, minimal VOCs
  • Cost-effective for medium-to-large batches

Cons

  • Requires oven — limits part size (largest ovens ~20ft)
  • Can’t do thin coatings (<1 mil) — powder has minimum thickness
  • Touch-up is difficult — entire part needs re-coating
  • Color matching between batches can vary

Best For

Steel and aluminum parts that need durability: frames, brackets, enclosures, outdoor furniture, automotive parts, railings.

Wet Painting (Spray)

Liquid paint applied via spray gun — either single-component (air dry) or two-component (catalyzed, requires mixing). Primer + color + clear coat for best results.

Pros

  • Thin coatings possible (0.5–2 mils)
  • Easy touch-up and repair
  • Precise color matching (Pantone, RAL)
  • No size limitation
  • Can paint plastics, wood, composites — not just metal

Cons

  • Less durable than powder coating
  • Runs, drips, orange peel if not applied well
  • VOC emissions (environmental/regulatory concerns)
  • Multiple coats = multiple cure cycles = longer lead time

Best For

Large structures, color-critical applications, mixed-material assemblies, field touch-up situations.

Anodizing

An electrochemical process that converts the surface of aluminum into a hard oxide layer. Not a coating ON the surface — it grows INTO the surface. Available in Type II (decorative, 0.2–1.0 mil) and Type III / hardcoat (2–4 mils).

Pros

  • Extremely hard — Type III rivals hardened steel surface hardness
  • Won’t peel, chip, or flake (it’s part of the metal)
  • Excellent corrosion resistance
  • Dyes penetrate the oxide — vibrant colors possible
  • Electrically insulating

Cons

  • Aluminum and titanium only — doesn’t work on steel
  • Limited color range for Type III (usually black, dark gray)
  • Adds 1–2 mils per side — must account for in tolerances
  • More expensive per part than powder coating

Best For

Aluminum parts requiring wear resistance, corrosion protection, or a clean technical look: heat sinks, enclosures, aerospace components, consumer electronics.

Quick Comparison

Factor Powder Coat Paint Anodize
Durability High Medium Very High
Thickness 2–6 mil 0.5–3 mil 0.2–4 mil
Materials Steel, Aluminum Anything Aluminum only
Colors Hundreds Unlimited Limited
Touch-up Difficult Easy Not possible
Cost $ $$ $$–$$$
Lead Time 1–3 days 2–5 days 3–7 days

Other Finishes Worth Knowing

  • Plating (Zinc, Nickel, Chrome): Electrodeposited metal layer. Zinc for corrosion (hardware), nickel for wear, chrome for appearance.
  • Passivation: Chemical treatment for stainless steel — removes free iron, improves corrosion resistance. Required for medical and food-grade.
  • Black Oxide: Chemical conversion coating for steel. Minimal protection, great appearance, no dimensional change. Used on fasteners, tools, firearms.
  • Cerakote: Thin-film ceramic coating. Extremely durable, used in firearms and aerospace. Premium cost.

Not sure which finish? Tell us about your part — we’ll recommend the right finish for your application and budget.